Nimsdai completes 14 peaks, without the use of supplemental oxygen

October 4, 2024

Nimsdai “Nims” Purja sets two new world records – and slashes the record for the fastest climb of all 14 Peaks without any oxygen, from nearly 8 years to under 2 years 5 months.

Team pay touching tribute to loved ones they lost in avalanche as they finish the 14 Peaks challenge they started together – setting new World Records.

I know Anna would tell me to go back and finish the mountain we started together, to show the world resilience and determination and to give her and Mingmar a fitting tribute. We are very happy to be able to dedicate these new records to their memory.

Ground-breaking mountaineer Nimsdai Purja and his team celebrate new world records as they pay a touching tribute to loved ones lost in the 2023 Shishapangma avalanche.

On Oct 4th Nimsdai summited Shishapangma, this means he has now completed all the world’s highest 14 peaks without supplementary oxygen, as well as with it, in record breaking time – giving him two new World Records. (Fastest time to complete the 14 peaks without supplementary oxygen and the fastest time to complete the 14 peaks both with and without supplementary oxygen.

Starting his epic world-record breaking attempt with Kanchenjunga on 7th May, 2022, the Nepalese-born British mountaineer and former UKSF, started the timer on his new 14 Peaks No Oxygen Challenge. Nims stood on the final peak Shishapangma on 4th October 2024, making Nims the fastest person to climb all the 14 Peaks without any supplementary oxygen in 2 years 4 months and 28 days – whilst leading and guiding clients. Previously the record for climbing all 14 without Oxygen was set at 7 years, 10 months and 6 days by South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho. Nims completes both the 14 peaks with and without supplementary oxygen in just 5 years, 5 months and 12 days (23rd April 2019 to 4th October 2024.)

Nims shared the summit with legendary climber, friend and fellow K2 Winter team-mate Mingma G – Mingma G also completed his 14 Peaks challenge without oxygen - and the two celebrated at the summit together, marking a spectacular new achievement for Nepali mountaineers and the Big Mountain community

The team held a special tribute for their loved ones, Anna Gutu and Mingmar Sherpa, who sadly died on October 7th 2023, when avalanches hit Shishapangma as the team climbed together. Four guiding companies were also caught up in the incident and sadly climbers Gina Marie and Tenjen Lama Sherpa were lost. Nims and Elite Exped successfully completed their rescue and repatriation in spring 2024 and Anna and Mingmar were reunited with their families.

Nimsdai and Elite Exped paid tribute to them, with Nimsdai dedicating his new world records to their memory. He said: “I know Anna would have told me to come back and finish the mountain we started together, to show the world resilience and determination and to give her and Mingmar a fitting tribute and legacy – these two new world records are dedicated to them, my family, and my dear mum and dad, who both sadly died after 2019.

“Thank you to everyone who has been on this journey with me since 2019 – I am truly grateful and humbled by your love and support. You are all forever part of these summits and successes.

He added: “My mission has always been to raise the name of the Big Mountain communities, inspire people to believe in themselves and their dreams and to work hard to achieve their new possible.

Nimsdai and Elite Exped are supporting Mingmar’s family in his memory.

Nims said: “People always say something is impossible until its done. After 14 Peaks, I wanted to continue to inspire people and show what is possible. So many times in life people tell us our dreams cannot be done, we should give up on them, they will not work. But if you listen to that negativity, you will never try and never start. I wanted to show everyone what can be done if you dream big, set a goal and work hard every day to achieve it.

“Everyone has different mountains to climb in life. My challenges will be different to yours, but if I can inspire one person to go for their dream, whether that’s climbing mountains or not, then that’s the important thing.

“I especially want to inspire the younger generation, the young people growing up in poverty and struggling – I have been where you are and I’m here to tell you – dream big. Don’t listen to the negativity – keep that strong positive mindset, keep working, stay humble and show the world what you can do. Nothing is impossible.”

Nimsdai ‘Nims’ Purja. Nims is the multi world record breaking mountaineer who climbed all 14 of the world’s ‘Death Zone’ peaks over 8,000m in just 6 months and 6 days. He led the first winter ascent of the ‘Savage Mountain’ K2. His Netflix film, 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, is out now, as is his best-selling book, Beyond Possible. Nims is a Global Goodwill Ambassador for Nepal Tourism and founder of the charitable Nimsdai Foundation.

Nimsdai “Nims” Purja sets two new world records – and slashes the record for the fastest climb of all 14 Peaks without any oxygen, from nearly 8 years to under 2 years 5 months.

14 Peaks No Oxygen timeline and summit dates:

2022

Mt. Kanchenjungha- May 7th 2022

Mt. Everest- 2022 – May 27th 2022 and May 16th 2023

Mt. Lhotse- 2022- May 28th 2022

2023

Mt. Makalu – 5th June 2023

Mt. Annapurna- 15th April 2023

Mt. Nangaparbat- 2nd July 2023

Mt. Gasherbrum I- 21st July 2023

Mt. Gasherbrum II- 17th July 2023

Mt. Broad Peak- 25th July 2023

Mt. K2- 16th Jan 2021(Winter), 22nd July 2022 and also 28th July 2023

Mt Manaslu – 17th Sept 2023

Mt Dhaulagiri – 29th Sept 2023

Mt. Cho Oyu – 2nd Oct 2023

2024

Mt. Shishapangma – 4th Oct 2024

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